Nomads of Litang
We picked up Genden, the 4 kids, and drove 60 Kms east of Litang. A monk greeted us in a small village where we had lunch. Yak yogurt, cheese, and some local dishes like Zamba.
After lunch we drove away from the main road a few kilometers inland, dirt road with wooden, flaky bridges. The monk came with us. In the land cruiser, we had 4 kids, Erin, Josh, Genden, the monk, me and the driver.
We arrived in vast grassland flat with small hills on each side which turned into snow-peaked mountains in the far. A dozen nomad tends were dressed, about 500 meters from each other, all facing the open valley. Thousands of yaks were scattered, peacefully grazing. The view was
stunning.
We stopped at the first tent, were greeted by 2 kids. Older girls and the father followed. The mom with her 3 month baby stayed inside by the oven.
The kids started to play with freezbees and balloons, Josh and Erin running all over the grasslands. The sky was covered, with hints of blue, with some intermittent showers. Nothing which stopped the plays.
We were invited in a few tents, warm welcomes by curious kids and adults. Yak tea was flowing abundantly.
We drove further on that dirt road until we reached a sacred lake we were told about. Tucked in a valley, a magnificent, pristine blue lake was waiting for us. Prayer flags were thoughtfully hanging reminding us of the sacred nature of the place. Erin and Josh walked around while the kids were picking flowers.
A surprise shower soaked us so we returned to the nomad camp. We (Josh, Erin and I) decided to spend the night with the first family we met. Everyone else left to town and the driver promised to pick us up in the morning. There was no phone signal in that area.
Needless to say that body language was a must. Only the middle 12 years old girl spoke a bit of Chinese, everyone else was pure Tibetan. Erin was actually doing rather well with her phrase book.
Hours passed peacefully as we walked around taking photos and chatting. We took many portraits with the polaroid which resulted in a few riots as every kid wanted their shots!
When the sun started to set everyone gathered the yaks to attach them for the night. Boys and girls were running around the grasslands herding the yaks, recognizing them by some piece of wood attached to their neck… and probably some marking which escaped us. Some were singing, some riding horses, some motorbikes. Each family ended up gathering their yaks near their tents. Ours had around 60 yaks. Herding lasted hours, an immense task carried out daily and with collaboration among families… Imagine localizing your yaks among thousands… A yak costs around $250 when young and $400 adult, a small fortune that no family can afford to lose.
The square canvas tent is set right on the bare grass. On its periphery are stored clothes, dried meat, boxes with all belongings. Near the entrance, the wood oven heats the place while an opening in the roof let’s most of the smoke leave the tent.
Time for dinner. Dried yak meat, bread buns, chunks of fat, butter, and milk. No greens, wine, or dessert!
We arranged beds by disposing thick chunks of fabric on the grass, then borrowed blankets from the neighbor tent. To finish, we covered it all with the plastic of a large military tent. No pillows or bed sheets here:)
Women slept in one corner while men on the opposite corner. We were in the middle, near the wood burning oven. Mother and her 3 month baby, 22 year old, 12 year old and 5 year old girls slept together. 50 year old man and 10 year old boy.
When the sun went down, a battery powered light went on. These charge on solar energy during the day. No TVs here, only the bare minimum.
All the family was observing us with as much curiosity as we were observing them., but there were many smiles, games and eye contacts.
Curfew around 10. We were not expecting to get any sleep. Erin, Josh in the middle, then me tucked ourselves under a thick layer of blankets. The silence in the tent was contrasting the dogs barking and yaks panting. Some moonlight was coming through the opening of the canvas tent, letting us guess the inside of the tent. From the tents entrance we cloud see the grasslands and guess silhouettes of dogs passing by. At 2 am, just as I turned to face the ceiling, it started to rain and drops were bouncing on my face and Josh’s. Amazingly, the old man called someone to fix the ceiling. He was not sleeping either.
3 of us were waiting for the morning to come, listening to the sounds of the nights, sending off the dogs entering the tent, or rolling to find comfort on the tough ground. I think none of us slept more than 1 hour each.
Morning came with kids sent off to fetch water and mom cooking milk. Same menu: yak dried meat, chunks of fat, bread buns…. Where is my croissant?
After cleaning up our beds, we walked around neighbor tents. Most nomads knew us by then and we were invited again and again.
The car arrived around 9:30. Goodbyes were emotional. We became attached to this family. The staring eyes and generous smiles, silly but funny games, hand gestures, food sharing, and a night under the same roof built a bond.
We barely scratched the surface of this rich nomadic culture. We have memories of unforgettable moments with many photos, and they have polaroids with us, nearby pictures of their relatives, monks and lamas.
We can’t wait to meet them again.
Tagong
Young monks studying Tibetan in the Tagong Monastery, Northern Sishuan
Young students occasionally suggest donations.
Picture taken as part of a GlobalRoots mission (http://www.globalroots.org)
Water Hardship
Mtito Andey, Kenya. The hardship of villagers such as Amiwa: year over year, less water, less wood, less jobs, less money. Many are forced into poaching, setting traps to catch wildlife in the bordering Tsavo national park. Many are forced into prostitution, at a time where HIV infection rates are at their highest.
Masai Mara. Masai children on their daily water duty.
Old man, his transistor, bicycle with which he carries 60 liters of water twice a day, to his village 25k away.
Water holes, well guarded.
“Water is brown here, but its not salty. Its clean, we can boil it and drink it. There is no water around so this is the only place we come for our drinking and cooking. We have to come early, sometimes elephants and monkeys are here, and its dangerous.”
“I am a mother of 3 children. I am 30 years old. This water is also used for watering our garden. Before, there were a few wells given by government and agencies, but now they are broken and no-one takes care of them.”
Pictures taken in the context of a GlobalRoots mission
Many thanks to Hasselblad China for kindly lending a H2D3-39 and a 50-110mm system.
Guardians of Tsavo
Masai desnarer, in the Tsavo West National Park. Desnaring means removing traps set by poachers. Everyday and night, these rangers walk the bush, tracking poachers by their footprints, often recovering trapped animal, tracking them by their scent.
Poaching of elephant tusks remains a problem today, given the lax ivory import policies of some countries. Learn more at http://www.globalroots.org, who sponsored this mission.
“In my daily patrol, I find 20 to 30 traps. I was trained so I can smell a dead animal from kilometers, like this large antelope. Its been here 3 days, the poacher forgot where he set the trap, so this animal is dead for no reason.”
Alex Macharia Kamau.
Francis, lead tracker.
Many thanks to Hasselblad China for gracefully loaning a H3D2 and 50-110mm for this trip.
Multimedia here:
The Guardians of Tsavo from GlobalRoots on Vimeo.
Shanghai 2009 CarShow
Wildlife of Kenya
Pictures taken during a visit to Kenya, Tsavo and Masai Mara Area, for GlobalRoots.org
Dreamer
Oayuwa Mattew, 12, leaves in a family of 6 in Mtito Andei ( Kenya), bordering the Tsavo National Park. Her parents are poachers. They set traps in the park to capture and sell bush meat to other villagers and brokers coming from Nairobi. They burn 100 year old trees to get $5 worth of charcoal.
No Government support here, and unemployment is booming, dry seasons get dryer, economy and political regime unrest drive away international tourists. Young girls get into prostitution as early as 13, and deaths from HIV are in sharp increase.
Oayuwa is dreaming of a better future.
Childen of the Matulani Community primary school.
“I make bricks, and when I sell some, I can buy some rice, or soap, or shampoo.”
Pictures taken during a visit to Kenya, Tsavo Area, for GlobalRoots.org
Many thanks to Hasselblad China for gracefully loaning a wonderful H3D2 and 50-110mm lens for this trip.
Rainy day in Masai Mara
Pictures taken during a visit to Kenya, Tsavo and Masai Mara Area, for GlobalRoots.org
Perplexing Iran
Enigmatic Eyes
This woman from Northern Cambodia was just treated by a magic healer. He used rice flour and incantations to take out substantial unknown matter from her eyes. She said she was able to see much better than before the magical intervention.
